Repairing My Yepp


This is web page contains notes and photos for dismantling the Samsung YP-T6 1GB digital audio player (DAP). Specifically I have a white/silver YP-T6Z/XAC manufactured 2005/07. This DAP is casually known as a "yepp."

This is a brilliant machine! Very small yet very capable. I particularly like that it supports OGG format. It has a voice recorder and FM tuner. Lastly, it's been run over by a car!

I bought a cassette adapter so I can attach the player into the onboard stereo in my old M3. This allows me to keep the antiquated but attractive OEM deck for the car yet play new music.


How I Broke It

I was trying to get external power to my yepp while using it in the car. I wanted to power it off the car's 12V and not use batteries. Then I wouldn't chew through a small mountain of AAA batteries over a long trip.

NiCds were not lasting very long. Lithium disposables provided good power for a long time but are obviously expensive and I don't like the waste factor.

When connected to the PC to exchange files, I noted--while powered--that the yepp was not usable. That is, you couldn't play nor listen to songs. So, I assumed, that the unit could only work in a stand-alone power scenario. Perhaps it was also that I did not see an car cigarette lighter adapter (CLA) offered by Samsung that cemented the idea that power could only be provided by an AAA battery.

I began to fabricate plans to construct a AAA battery adapter shell with a voltage divider circuit, stepping down the car's 12 volts to 1.5 or 1.6 for the yepp. In prototyping a design, I "broke" the yepp.

I was trying to feed power into the player. I realised that the power from the positive end of the battery, while touching the battery door of the yepp, was fed inside the player through a thin metal tab. When I tried contacting the internal metal piece, I pushed too far or too deep. The yepp stopped working. Crap!

I was worried I had shorted a circuit or broken a connection. With nothing to lose, I decided to dismantle the yepp. This stumped me for a good week or so. But I finally figured it out...



(The photos below are clickable thumbnails...)

1. Put the HOLD switch in the "on" position (red showing). And open battery door.

Later, when sliding the top metal plate off the body, the HOLD switch needs to be in the "on" position. This allows for the approx. 2mm of movement.


2. Remove the ENC / USB end plate.

A small Phillips screwdriver is required to remove the screw. The end plate can be pried up along the edge that the screw was removed from, the bottom side of the yepp. There is a tabbed lip on the other side, on the top side of the yepp. However, it is a tight fit between the ENC jack surround, the USB port, and the top edge of the end plate. You can defer removing the end plate until after the next step.


3. Remove the internal screw.

A very small Phillips screwdriver is required to remove the screw. There is a very small screw inside ENC end of the yepp. It holds the top metal plate in place. If the end plate is still affixed, this is hard to see. If you pry the end plate up at an angle and shine light in, you'll see the screw head. In the photo above, the end plate is removed, and the screwdriver points to the screw.

Note: This screw, upon examination, appeared to have a dab of blue LockTite on it. You might apply some during reassembly to ensure it does not spin out...

Note: In this photo, you can see the thin metal cover plate has been removed from the main bottom metal plate. This is not necessary to affect repair.


4. Remove the back facia.

A thin knife or very thin flat head screwdrivers will assist here. The plastic back plate is affixed to the body with a very sticky double-sided tape. The back plate has all the printing on it as well as the date / serial number sticker.


5. Remove the "lock tabs."

A thin knife or very thin screwdriver or tweezers is required. Two small metal tabs are revealed when the back facia is removed. In fact, they might fall out! Don't lose them. These tabs lock the top and bottom plates in place. When removed, the top and bottom plates can be slide sideways.


6. Slide the top and bottom metal plates toward the battery / headphone jack end and remove.

With the "locks" removed, and the battery door open, the top and bottom plates can slide sideways to unlock from grooves hold them to the body. Slide each toward the open battery end of the body. Each plate will unlatch from a groove. Then each can be easily wriggled free of the body.

Note that the top plate holds the button bar. The REC / A-B / play-pause buttons are actually interconnected as one pad. It will fall out as you remove the top plate.

The HOLD button, on the other hand, is attached to the body (as noted in the photo above).


7. Remove the battery door / headphone jack end plate.

A thin knife or very thin screwdriver or tweezers is required. With top, back, and bottom plates removed, you'll see a small tab hold the battery cover end plate onto the body. You can see the little white tab in the photo above. Gently pry this tab up and the battery cover should fall free.


8. Pry the power contact up.

A thin knife or very thin screwdriver or tweezers is required. With the battery end plate removed, you can see a small gold tab or bar. The short battery cover gold tab is to touch this longer bar when the battery cover is closed. I pressed this bar too hard when fiddling so now it was sitting too low, bent out of position. I gently pried it up about 1 to 2 mm.


Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.


Power Notes

In researching how to repair a broken yepp, I learned a couple of things.

1. There do not seem to be any web pages out there on affecting do-it-yourself repairs to your yepp. Hence, this newly created page with photos.

2. A third party sells a CLA power adapter that purportedly works with the yepp! If that's the case, then they're going in through the USB. Maybe I'll try hacking that...


Miscellaneous Notes

I am not responsible for any data loss. Presumably, you've backed up any data / music / podcasts on the yepp before affecting repairs.

Can't go a day without a disclaimer... This web page and the photos are provided as is, errors and all. Every attempt has been made to ensure there are no typographical or logical errors in this material. But you should still be careful. Corrections and problems may be reported to:

hotair AT computer hyphen ease dot com

In particular, when dealing with modern solid state electronics, you should be know that static discharge can damage components. Ensure you are adequately grounded and not staticky!

This material is not provided by Samsung.


Last edited on Wed 28-Feb-2007 8:13 PM .